Vézelay

The relics of Mary-Magdelene were brought to Vézelay at the beginning of the eleventh century. Because of this, the basilica of Saint Mary-Magdelene once attracted pilgrims from all over Europe. It was one of the departure points for pilgrammages to Compostella. St. Bernard preached the second crusade here. Other visitors included St. Thomas à Becket, Philippe August, Richard the Lion Hearted, and St. Louis. Unfortunately, in 1270, the pope decreed that Mary-Magdelene's relics were actually in Provence. This started the end of Vezelay's life as a medieval tourist attraction. Luckily, this meant that the church was constructed in a relatively short time, so it is done in a single consistent style (except for the stuff that had to be redone by the famous architect Viollet-le-Duc after it was destroyed in the French Revolution).

The church is famous for its capitals, which strangely enough tell many stories from Greek mythology. This one is the Rape of Ganymede. Jupiter, disguised as an eagle is carrying off a shepherd boy as the boy's dog barks and his parents lament.

 

This picture is from the Vézelay website. It shows a little of the beautiful lightness of the interior.

From the Vézelay Guidebook. This is the largest and best French Romanesque Church.

The inside is not lit artificially.

Here's apparently someone's backyard vinyard.

This is the view from the backyard vinyard. Makes you wonder how people can stand to live here, it's so ugly.

This is the church as seen from the bottom of the hill.

My niece Naomi was in Vézelay with us.

Sort of.

The church is at the top of this hill. I'm glad I wasn't carrying a suitcase.

 

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Unless noted otherwise, all photographs copyright Liz & Jamel Ostwald, 2001